Kafka in Kathmandu


2 August 2011 Kafka in Kathmandu What are you willing to go through in order to get a pair of walking sandals?  I had brought my old Chackos, my sturdiest, waterproof, hiking sandals to Nepal, where I wore them every day.  At night I left them with the myriad other shoes jumbled up at Sughanda’s house … More Kafka in Kathmandu

Kalidas’s House


As soon as I moved into Kalidas’s unhappy house, I realized that I had had it with Nepal.  I like Kalidas, in spite of his domineering ways.  He looks me straight in the eyes, which Sugandha rarely did.   And he shows the pain of their terrible loss.  Not five months ago, they lost their 19 … More Kalidas’s House

On the way home, part 1: Nepali Sexual Politics


SourceURL:file://localhost/Users/aamoret/Nepal/25%20July.2011.doc On my way home, part one: I have not been able to write for a while because I have had very limited access to the internet.  Also, my last days here in Nepal have been richly complicated and busy, and I have not had the energy or ability to post.  Right now I’m sitting … More On the way home, part 1: Nepali Sexual Politics

What I love here:


The comforting croak of the frogs at night. The sound of rain on a tin roof. Women walking in kurtas, veils trailing. Hennaed hands on the first of Saun. Temples like mushrooms in the unlikeliest of places. Mild-mannered dogs, neither tame nor wild, sleeping in intersections. Ducklings waddling down the center of the street. Chicks … More What I love here:

Namo Buddha (Hail to the Buddha) and Nepali Women


3 July 2, 2011 Yesterday I visited an important Buddhist shrine, Namo or Naya Buddha, with two other volunteers, Shannon and Darima, and a group of Hindu women from the Women’s Center. I teach these Nepali women English, and they taught me more about Nepali spirituality than any book or article I’ve read.  They don’t … More Namo Buddha (Hail to the Buddha) and Nepali Women

Krishala, again


28 June 2011 Eve Just back from the orphanage.  Maria, who is starting her fifth year of medical school, went with me to check up on Krishala, who was ill again today.  The report on Krishala’s stool sample came back and informed us that she has ameobic dysentery, which is extremely common among children in … More Krishala, again

Laxmi Update


27 June 2011 I continue to worry about Laxmi.   We’ve started math classes at the women’s center and she appears to have trouble even with rudimentary arithmetic. This may have something to do with her unfamiliarity with western-style numerals, but I fear that the problem is deeper.   It would seem that she has had very … More Laxmi Update

Getting Sick in Nepal


Friday, June 24, 2011 Bad scare this morning.  As soon as I got through the orphanage gate, Bipin rocketed himself at me and landed with his legs around my waist and his arms around my neck.  Rupus was right behind him, and then Gorima, Nirmala, and Anura were on me.  Only Krishala stayed behind.  She … More Getting Sick in Nepal

Daily life


After a bad bout of the johhny-jump-ups I’m back to work and beginning to settle in.  I rise with the rest of the Nepalis, at 5 or so, puddle around on the rooftop garden having tea in my pajamas and then get myself into the shower.  On clear mornings I can see the Himalayas looming … More Daily life

Down for the Count


Well, I’ve got it. My grandfather called this condition the Johnny Jump-Ups.  I’ve had mild intestinal discomfort for the past week, and thought I had beaten it.   I even ventured into the big city by bus for the day yesterday.    But I have been confined to my quarters for the entire day, and … More Down for the Count